FRENCH TRAVEL ~ ONE EMOTION AT A TIME, PLEASE!

A series of essays.....

DANCING IN NICE, FRANCE
ALONG THE BEACH AND THE PROMENADE
DES ANGLAIS

.....as seen through my eyes!

By: Jacqueline E. Hughes

Hand in hand lovers, for the moment, swirl and sway to the rhythm and beat. An ancient voice sits beside the DJ who spins the sounds of melodies composed in another era in time. The crooner attempts to keep up with the music as his cigarette dangles, precariously, from his weathered lips. The beat changes. The dancers switch partners. Heads shift from one side to another until the women's eyes rest, demurely, on their new partner. The men hold the women with respect as their bodies begin to adjust to the new rhythms of both the music and the new person within their arms.  Life's dance continues to ebb and flow just like the sea that continually swallows the etched, gray stones a few yards away.....then, predictably, recedes into the blackness of the Bay. Their recently shined dancing shoes adapt to the changes and slowly, each new couple transforms into silent lovers, for a few moments in time. Witnesses to this ancient ritual line the shadowed Promenade above the dancers, delighted by the spectacle below. Charged by the music and the constant swell of the sea, their feet tap unconsciously; their bodies miming the motions of the dancers. With slight body movements, they suggest emotions without words. Using only gestures, expression, and movement, they align with the couples down below them; absorbing the rituals of motion and life, heartbeats blend together along the large expanse of the Promenade. Individuals blend seamlessly with those around them as the dance of life repeats itself night after night.....

THE PROMENADE IN NICE

MEMORIALS TO THE INNOCENT

I have become smitten by this magical place.

Lined with palm trees, as well as its iconic blue beach chairs, perfect for people watching, the Promenade des Anglais sweeps along the coastline, stretching from the Nice Airport Côte d'Azur to the Quai des États-Unis on the east side. Just last year, France submitted the famous pathway for Unesco World Heritage status.

La Prom, as it is affectionately called by the locals, is nearly four and a half miles of 'life' itself. A Mecca for bicyclists, baby strollers, families strolling along together on a Sunday afternoon, this pathway features cabanas perfect for a slow, uncomplicated time along the Mediterranean and the deep reflective thoughts enhanced by the azure water of the Bay of Angels.

By the end of the day, 14 July, 2016, eighty-six innocent souls would be lost forever along the Promenade. Bastille Day. A time of joy and celebration for the people of France. Equivalent to our Fourth of July. A time of Pomp-and-Circumstance. Filled with ceremony, fuss, and fireworks.....

With a heavy heart, my soul sings the 'Weary Blues.'

ARLES ARENA
(AMPHITHEATER)

WITHIN THE ARLES
AMPHITHEATER

Have you ever been lost in Arles? 

Not lost in the sense that all is abandoned and there's no hope of surviving. Rather, lost in the folds of history that tend to envelope European spaces so completely, so profoundly, it pulls at your very soul. Emotionally captivated by the simple beauty that surrounds you such as narrow, cobbled streets and the profusion of flowers, potted and sprayed along iron balconies and the ancient stones of buildings and walls like colorful silken skirts protecting the secrets beneath.....you can't help but notice several large elephants in the room. 

STAGE OF THE ROMAN THEATER

ROMAN THEATER SEATING

The Roman Amphitheater (The Arena) was built at the end of the first century AD and could hold 21,000 spectators who came to witness fights and games. Built a century before the amphitheater, the Roman Theater is its imposing neighbor. Looted for centuries for its building materials, today it is once again being utilized as the magnificent theater it was meant to be. Sitting on the ancient stone slabs that have seated millions of others just like me, emotions in the form of awe and wonderment took over and for a short span of time, it was easy to lose my sense of 'self' and become a small, silent figure lost in space and time.

PORTION OF FRIEZE
FROM ROMAN THEATER

CASCADING BEAUTY

....Arles is one of the capital cities of Provence of the Bouches-du-Rhône department in the south of France.

The Celebration of Friendships

"To thine own self be true," quote from William Shakespeare's "Hamlet Act 1" that describes the importance of not deceiving yourself or others by ignoring what your heart tells you. When a person is true to himself, it's easier to be true to everyone else.

Traveling to France this past September was a true homecoming of old friendships and deep emotion. We knew that going in and planned most of our trip around this idea.

DINNER WITH NADINE AT
RESTAURANT SOUS LES MICOCOULIERS
 

Nadine Fourré, a renowned French artist/sculptor, utilizes the 'Art of Balance' in all of her many works she proudly displays, not only in her hometown of Eygalieres, France, but galleries and Expos throughout Provence. She believes that everything begins feet under the water and incorporates her precious river finds of stone and driftwood into her manifestations of balance.  

While living in Japan for over twenty years and studying architectural design in Tokyo, she immersed herself in the art of "less is more" and gladly became a student of the stone gardens of Zen temples. Through a mutual friend, I met Nadine on Facebook many years ago and we became fast friends. I've written a lengthy piece about her artwork on my blog, 'Moving On...' and have always hoped to meet her in person one day.

OLIVE GROVE
EYGALIERES, FRANCE

VINEYARD NEAR EYGALIERES

Staying in Eygalieres, tucked in among the Alpilles Mountain chain and close to the banks of the Durance, the first night of our trip afforded me the opportunity to spend time with Nadine and get to know her better.

What joy in my heart! My excitement was beyond palatable like the delightful local organic Rosé we all sipped together and the petite, homegrown organic tomatoes still on the vine we nibbled on before going out to dinner under the stars. Ahh, the more wine we consumed, the more my emotions hung on my sleeve to be seen and felt by all who saw me.

CONVERSATION BEHIND
NADINE'S STONE COTTAGE

A perfect evening among new friends that will be cherished and, hopefully, repeated as the years go by. Thank you, Nadine, for showing us how beautiful and kind your world is. I promise to keep this feeling within me forever.....

LE VERGER

BREAKFAST

Next stop.....Le Verger, a charming Bed & Breakfast in the Luberon area of Provence that is owned and personally operated by our friends, Daniele and Jean-Philippe Rossi. I have often written about this magical place we were so kindly introduced to seven years ago. These amazing people have become more like family to us than we could have ever imagined upon that first meeting.

Having slipped through the 'surly bonds' of jet lag the night before and survived, we were looking forward to spending two nights at Le Verger seeped in informative and friendly conversation, the surrounding beauty of the Vaucluse, and copious amounts of Daniele's delicious croissants and homemade jams and jellies. We were not disappointed.

FRIENDSHIP

Daniele met us, arms wide and welcoming, as soon as we pulled in. With many tears of joy and delight shed by all of us, we felt as though we'd arrived back home.

The first evening there, we were told that we were having a home cooked dinner with yet another couple who had become friends of Daniele and Jean-Philippe around ten years ago when they assisted in helping to pick olives in the orchard at Le Verger. Anne, originally from London, married Jean-Claude, a Frenchman, and lived and raised their children in France. With Anne speaking excellent French, as well as English, Daniele reasoned that we would enjoy hearing English spoken and that Anne would have a chance to use her native language once again.

Our conversation leaned heavily towards American politics as they were, naturally, interested in our personal reactions to one of the most unprecedented Presidential elections in the history of the United States. On the other hand, we learned about French politics, as well, and were intrigued by the frank openness and general diversity of the four French citizens we listened to. At this point, Dan and I knew we had been welcomed into the fold with open arms.

OBLIGATORY SELFIE WITH
DANIELE & JEAN-PHILIPPE

Our two days swiftly flew by when we found ourselves saying good-bye once again. Vowing it would not be another seven years before we meet again and extending our open invitation for them to see us in Orlando, we waved a bientôt to two of the most giving, patient, and loving people we know. 

The roller coaster of emotions within that two day period was, in itself, amazing, exhilarating, and exhausting as time rolled on. I can remember wiping away my tears for many miles down the roads of the French countryside as we made our way to Arles for the night.....

David..David..David!

What can I say? We have been friends with David for so long now that the many years in between our last visit together gently slid by all of us. There was so much life, love, and happiness sandwiched neatly between then and now that it seems ridiculously wonderful to know that we didn't lose out or miss something along the way. And, I liberally give kudos to Facebook for helping to make this happen.

DAVID ~ HAPPY FACES ~ OPEN HEARTS

Dan and I believed in the beginning that we'd have enough time during this trip to slide down to Barcelona, Spain, explore the exotic wonders of Gaudi architecture including the Sagrada Familia, the intricate Basilica that is one of Gaudi's greatest works, and visit David and Ray for a day or two. Eventually, we realized we just could not stretch our time in order to make this work out.

Fortunately, David came up with a feasible plan and asked if the four of us could meet in the small French resort town of Collioure north of the French and Spanish border and have dinner together. We would be coming down after a three night stay in Pieusse, a small village just south of Carcassonne where we had celebrated our wedding anniversary. 

COLLIOURE HARBOR

As time transpired, we found a room for the night in Collioure with the anticipation of driving all the way back to Nice the following day. David surprised us by booking a room at La Bona Casa, as well. Finally, Dan and I were going to get to meet Ray and see David again after all this time. David and Ray were married in Spain and will soon celebrate their fourth wedding anniversary. 

CARCASSONNE, FRANCE

Ray McCall, you wily one. You slipped by us once again due to your work schedule. Now we must wait to see that handsome face of yours in person either in Florida or when we are fortunate to be able to visit Barcelona in the future.

Sipping wine along the beach front in Collioure with David and Dan, I realized the unexpected paths our life can take. Would I have thought that we'd be spending time with Mr. Ackley in France, wine glass in hand, with the beauty of this resort town behind us and the Mediterranean Sea stretched out so richly before us? 

The slight drizzle motivated us to seek out a place for dinner and we found a perfect spot outside and only a block away from our hotel. By then the rain had subsided and we ordered more wine and beer and ample food that turned out to be quite delicious. At one point, we were laughing very boisterously and with good cheer and that night, before going to bed, I realized I'd lost one of my favorite earrings. Even the next day when we retraced our steps and couldn't find the earring, I knew I could not let it bother me after having enjoyed such a wonderful time.

DAVID IN FRONT
OF OUR HOTEL

Enjoying our coffee and croissants the next morning was bittersweet for all of us. David would soon be driving back south, picking-up his two adorable dogs and bringing them back to his flat with Ray returning from his trip in a few days time. We had a much longer day in the car as we, reluctantly, packed the rental car and headed to the beautiful city of Nice for our last evening in France.

We miss you, David. We miss the laughter and excellent wine. We miss the political discussions with the three of us knowing how to keep America as great as it always has been. But, most of all, we miss you. Until we are blessed to see you again....much love and peace.

WINE EQUALS ~ JOY

JAMBON ET FROMAGE
AVEC BAGUETTE ~ LOVE

Copyright © 2016 by Jacqueline E. Hughes

All rights reserved

SAYING BONJOUR TO THE CÔTE D'AZUR

A series of essays....

LANDING AT THE NICE COTE D'AZUR AIRPORT

.....as seen through my eyes!




By: Jacqueline E. Hughes

I like the cosiness of an international flight. Maybe it's just the fact that a large group of strangers are able to sleep all willy-nilly among one another and within the close, shadowy confines of an otherwise long, narrow tube for an extended period of time.

Walking the long, narrow path to the toilet at the back of the craft when Mother Nature calls is a bit surreal and can be likened to representing the only surviving mortal drifting among a group of zombies within a Michael Jackson video. I know....that dates me. But, the darkness supplies listless arms, hands, legs, and even, heads protruding from the shadowed seats, their backs tall and uniformed like memorial stones aligned in perfect formation.

Navigating the narrow pathway of forced slumber is a prescreening of an Apocalyptic nightmare; faces frozen in unlikely poses, previously witnessed by nocturnal acquaintances alone, display drooling, stroke-like expressions. Uncontrolled appendages vie for the best 'incredible position' category as they unconsciously slither down sandpaper-like seat cushions and inflexible metal armrests.

Technically, we are being maneuvered into believing that time has no immanent regularity whatsoever even as it permanently pervades and sustains this amazing universe! For the duration of the six, seven, eight hour flight, we, as thinking and logical human beings, are cast into the role of 'needing to nap' infants who, a mere three or four hours earlier, awoke to normal morning rituals such as begging for our breakfast and experiencing the desperate need to empty our bladders.

Humans, for the most part, are easily manipulated....

We are fooled into believing one thing or another merely because we want to believe in something so badly, we 'll do or say anything to achieve the results we desire.  





We are served dinner while it is only lunchtime in our real world. Then we're told that if we cooperate and sleep well, we will be served breakfast in the "morning" when, normally, for most of us, dinner would be our main objective. To interrupt the natural timing within us is a strange yet interesting process and leads to jet lag or, the general feeling of fatigue and disorientation we experience after a long flight through several time zones.

Now....to add to this cluster bomb of mind bending unreality, did you know that we could be flying in a windowless airplane within the next decade?

Several European companies are working on a windowless fuselage and seat backs to be lined with smart display screens "that would tantalize your visual senses with panoramic views of the outside that come from a set of cameras mounted to the plane's exterior," says iflscience.com. For the claustrophobics out there.....I wish you luck! I don't care how many cute pictures are displayed around me, a plane without windows sounds like a total nightmare!

Let's not forget our ultimate goal: Traveling from A to B to C or D, depending upon how many stops or layovers you have between A and your final destination.

But, certainly, it's all about that final destination! It's the excitement of ultimately reaching that predetermined beginning of your journey where pleasant memories will soon be recorded and digital cameras will prove their worthiness. And, social media will soon be inundated by every move, place, and meal you decide to make, be at, and eat throughout this trip.     

Having strangers purring in their sleep next to you and having time twisted and turned in order to reformulate your physical and mental presence are minor distractions in the long run. When you do grasp the small tab and slide open the mini-shade covering your view of the world from thousands of feet above the earth, you hope you will be ready.

Each time we fly into the Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, I believe I am ready for the beauty that's there to greet me. I never really am. The Côte d'Azur blows me away every single time!

This coastal area of southeastern France, along the Mediterranean Sea, is roughly coterminous with the French Riviera. It includes the towns of Cannes, Saint Tropez, Juan-les-Pins, and Antibes, as well as the city of Nice and the principality of Monaco.



Numerous white vessels of various makes, sizes, and monetary values, cut through and dot the azure blue sea leaving long trails of white bubbles and saline froth behind them. The shoreline is defined by the lofty waves breaking onto the pebbled coast framing the distinguishable clusters of buildings along the Promenade des Anglais which stretches for miles and miles.

Small hilltop towns sporting ochre/gray coats of clay and stone sit like robust sentinels protecting the populous from seafaring invaders while serpentine mountains offer a sturdy backdrop to the powerful, natural beauty that washes down towards the sea.



         DAN LOADING UP OUR RENTAL CAR


Flying into France at this location always takes my breath away! And, so....this is where our journey truly begins. Bonjour Côte d'Azur! I am ready to hear the lilting French dialogue that will swaddle and intrigue me for the next ten days.


Copyright © 2016 by Jacqueline E. Hughes
All rights reserved

TREPIDATION: SADNESS IN A FRENCH PARADISE

A series of essays.....

THE HOTEL WEST END LOCATED ALONG
THE PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS, NICE, FRANCE 

.....as seen through my eyes!




By: Jacqueline E. Hughes


It is with some trepidation that I view the prospect of traveling to my beloved France this September. This is certainly a first for me and has caught me off guard. Allow me to explain. 

We plan our trips with adventure in mind, like many of us do. The basis for these experiences may be the discovery of a new international recipe to add to a growing culinary collection. Seeing new places and feasting on their history d'être has always worked well for Dan and me. Bringing home the joy of new friendships made along the way......is what I'd like to describe as 'simple perfection.'

The uncomplicated freshness felt by being in the south of France is predominant and, this visit will be no exception.

You see, there comes a time when nothing or no one can take the feeling of happiness away from you. When travel provides us with incalculable joy, the prospect of losing that feeling, that right, for any reason, is so beyond the thinkable that most of us deny the possibility with a French wave of the hand in front of our disdained-filled faces. Lately, I have used this unique French gesture often.

I've read stories of how rich Americans have decided not to travel in France this season for their holiday and have opted for various 'other' destinations. These Americans have sighted that terrorists tend to 'mark' the wealthy for attacks and they feel uncomfortable being their possible target.

For the record, they must have their own 'lofty' and disdainful form of trepidation.

I have never claimed that staying at the Ritz and being chauffeured from one exclusive shop to another while dining at yet another Michelin-starred restaurant each day as my idea of adventure! If seeking exclusive shopping time or eating rich food offers you an exciting, slightly dangerous good time.....C'est la vie!

And, herein lies the distinction.

Traveling for me is like moving from one enormous classroom to another. My teacher may be the antics of a small child, the perfect light of a hazy mountain morning, or the joy of sitting on an old log watching a handful of 'locals' intensely enjoying a game of pétanque (French outdoor bowling) in the afternoon heat. The language spoken might be 'Greek' to my ears, but I'm willing to learn a bit of it, employ elaborate hand gestures, and, at the very least, smile my way through any given situation. In the process of all this, if I can take away the knowledge of something new and put a smile on someone else's face at the same time, my education and spirit are greatly enhanced by the experience!

Traditionally, the last evening of our trip is set aside for winding-down, savoring a local meal, and eagerly weaving our way back through the intricacies of emotions and experiences our visit has provided us while viewing each one of them as a rich, artistic performance, full of nuance and equal importance. For us, this is a perfect segue back into reality. It bridges the gap between being in constant motion for ten days and the long flight scheduled the next morning out of Nice International Airport along the Côte d'Azur.

And then...... "On the evening of 14 July, 2016, 85 people were killed and 307 injured when a large cargo truck was deliberately driven into crowds celebrating Bastille Day on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, France."  ---France 24, International News                                  

 

                                

As I sat watching the news channel late that afternoon, when the initial reports of this horrendous act unfolded, I began recognizing landmarks flashing within the strobe lights of emergency vehicles. Among them, the pristine silhouettes of the white pergolas lining the Promenade, the distinctive onion-dome roof line of the Hotel Negresco, and I realized that the Hotel West End, located at 31 Promenade des Anglais, was emblazoned with identical flashing lights.

Hotel West End....beautiful and pristine clad in white marble from its enormous front columns and massive staircase leading up to her ornate front entrance with multiple 'eyes' (windows) looking out across the Promenade towards the shimmering Mediterranean Sea.....our hotel for the final night in France.

I remember feeling the warmth of my tears sliding slowly down my cheeks as I sat there watching the screen.

At that moment, I had no idea of the grave extent of carnage that had just unfolded before the entire world. There was no worldly or profound explanation for why this was happening. Everything went against the grain of every fiber of my being and my mind was incapable of comprehending most of it. It was a 'James Bond' moment where reality is undermined by an elaborate Hollywood script with 'extras' cast as broken bodies on the street and others dressed in emergency uniforms of many varieties attempting to assist them.

Herein lies the basis for my trepidation, my anxiety regarding our visit to France next month.

We will walk the path of these innocent victims of our dangerous times and see the numerous memorials dedicated to them as we make our way down this beautiful Promenade. How could we not? The signs will be everywhere and the memories still so fresh.....somber. Our hearts will enfold the spirit of our lost friends who were innocently enjoying the celebration of life, the unity of their nation, and the beauty of their surroundings!

Our last evening in France this time will definitely take-on a brand new dimension.....not measured in length, width, height, or diameter. Rather, we will be analyzing the scope and aspect of this changing world we live in.

By choosing to continue with our plans in Provence, Languedoc, and, lastly, our night in Paradise (Nice), we have already made the clear distinction and choice between the celebration of the goodness life has to offer and the genuine fear it may contain. We will never be foolish enough to discount all of the irrational people who are hell-bent on destroying life as we know it, either. We will become watchful and alert along our daily travels, yet not allow this new attitude to distract from the pleasure of being where we want to be.

During our evening meal along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, under a canopy of twinkling September starlight, Dan and I will discuss the future, as well as our small role towards the alleviation of evil in this world. We will honor those who have fallen. And, we will hope and pray that our choices will aid in making a difference for every generation of travelers, students of life, and those who appreciate our amazing world for what it has to offer each one of us!







Copyright © 2016 by Jacqueline E. Hughes
All rights reserved

THE SHAPE OF MEMORIES........

 A series of short stories.......

Traveling The French Coastline To Italy

........as seen through my eyes!

By: Jacqueline E. Hughes





Courtesy of Writers Write

A daily writing prompt from Writers Write encouraged me to produce my story for this week by initiating a simple premise: write about the shape of memories.  Not their color.  Not their sound.  Not their emotional impact.  (Although, you know I'll include them anyway, right?).



I immediately began thinking about our venture into Italy and, more specifically, the 'mountains that flow into the sea' along the coastline from France right into Sanremo, Italy!  Where there is a strip of flatland riding the coast the width of a two-lane road lined by, perhaps, one structure on either side.  As you head into the town of Sanremo, heading east along the coastal road called the SS1, and turn to your right, you will see the magnificent blues of the Mediterranean Sea awash in a shower of golden light provided by the early afternoon sun.  Turning to your left.....dramatically, the earth flows upwards with white houses built into the mountain's base and large stone walls providing a muted gray-toned backdrop.

These vivid memories helped to shape our modest Italian escapade and mark our initial visit to this unbelievably beautiful country and dramatic terrain!!

Earlier that same morning, our memories were in the shape of stone fountains, disappearing rental cars and the heartwarming silhouette of a good friend basked in a halo of warm morning sunlight.  "Let me show you the closest underground parking lot to your hotel," said Claudine,  just before Dan dropped me off at the Hotel de France. Shortly afterwards, Claudine and Dan were walking together over the cobblestones towards the hotel to reclaim me and our luggage.  Making our way together back to the car, all I could think about was after putting hours of research into Aix in the form of its history, best places to stay, best places to eat, as well as exploring the Cours Mirabeau....none of that precious time afforded us an ideal parking scenario for the night.  I will have to rethink my priorities for future overnight stays within metropolitan European cities, especially involving rental cars and parking.

As difficult as it was to say good-bye to Claudine, we were well aware of precious travel time drifting away with each tick of the clock.  Checking the time as we pulled-out of the city proper and, eventually up onto the A8, our 'fast track' to Nice and Italy, we both realized that the adventure we'd just shared could have easily taken a full day to survive under different circumstances.

"It's ten forty-five and we're on the road.  What do you think?  Can we make it into Italy and explore a bit?" Dan implored, with an enormous smile spreading across his face.  After making eye contact and holding it for a moment, we both erupted with laughter that failed to wane until most of our fear, frustration and pain flowed away in the shape of salty tears that ran recklessly down our cheeks.  Wiping them away, we realized even then that these tear-shaped memories provided us the comfort and realization that life truly is one great adventure after another.  How we choose to individually react to and handle each adventure will be the barometer that measures the amount of happiness and joy we extract from it.  Releasing our fear encouraged us to relish all of the positives surrounding the morning's slight 'hiccup' in Aix-en-Provence and push us towards yet another adventure before flying home!

My memories of the A8 are ones of swiftness and speed as the panoramic French scenery and the Mediterranean Sea cradled us in their beauty with Dan navigating our little Citroen along the smooth stretches of asphalt past the likes of Frejus, Cannes, Cagnes-sur-Mere (that night's destination) and Nice.  Soon after passing the signs for Nice, we approached a rest area entrance that we followed through the tall trees before parking near a stone building neatly nestled in the early autumn foliage.  Evidently, everything in France, even the roadside toilets, were designed around beauty, as well as  functionality!!



Country of Monaco And The City of Monte Carlo

Walking back outside, I found Dan looking over a stone wall out to the sea and, when he turned and saw me, he beckoned me to join him there.  "What do you see?" He asked.  "The Mediterranean," I replied.  "And......what else?" he kept pressing.  Finally, I looked directly below us and recognized a landscape so familiar to me via pictures, videos, Technicolor movies starring Grace Kelly or, more recently, James Bond entering a Casino with the hope of elegantly thwarting his arch nemesis.  I was close enough to follow the twists and turns of streets that hosted Grand Prix racing since 1929 with colorful Formula One cars and drivers navigating them today before flying by the checkered flag.  We were perched like two birds just above the country of Monaco along the French Riviera with all of its 499 acres in plain sight and at least that many yachts docked between her two major ports, the Port of Fontvieille and Port Hercule. 

The midday sun exploded off the white marble-clad buildings, icons of wealth and beauty.  We recognized the breathtaking  Monte Carlo Casino with its jutting towers and ornate roof, as well as the elongated and graceful lines of the Prince's Palace handsomely settled between the two ports and majestically looking out towards the sea.

It was so difficult for us to turn away from this engaging sight, as you can imagine!  Our Italian adventures called and it was time for us to catalog these memories in the shape of romance; a lover's kiss....  Crossing over to Italy was a short drive and several tunnels away but, we had precious little time to do it in. 

Grimaldi, Italy

Like a ping pong ball shot through an air gun, the final tunnel spit us out directly into the industrial world of Grimaldi, Italy.  We'd arrived at last!  We were on Italian soil! Leaving the main road, Dan followed the signage and picked-up the SS1 that closely followed the coastline to Sanremo.  When the flat land between mountains and sea seemed to be  virtually disappearing, we found our 'road to heaven' and began to climb. 

Earlier in the week we had driven up to the summit of Mount Ventoux in the Vaucluse in France and remembered finding comfort in the wide, paved road, switchbacks cushioned on both sides by pine forests and, even when the vegetation ceased to exit as we approached the summit, the road seemed wide, safe, comfortable.  Well, the SP56 right out of Sanremo took me so far out of my 'comfort zone' that I braced myself for what was to be.....a very wild ride!

Sanremo, Italy

The series of tight switchbacks had us climbing at such a pitch that items not held down in the front of the car were now in the back of it.  Our small Citroen began to feel like a 1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville as the road narrowed and the twists became even tighter.  We were, for the most part, hugging the mountain on the inside and I suppose, psychologically speaking, this gave me something to cling to.  Dan's side, well.....let me just say, quite another story!  No guard rails, loose stone and an outer lane so narrow that when another vehicle approached us from the other direction, I would murmur prayers for us all!  Several times, Dan had to drive slightly up the mountainside so that we sat at an angle at a complete stop in order to allow a car to go by on the outside.  To this day I can see the other driver's weathered face as he inched by us, smiling in gratitude, and I realized at that exact moment he was literally sitting closer to Dan than I was!

Even though people who appeared to be 'locals' were passing by us, we had yet to see where they might live, work or where they were coming from until we finally popped-up into the clouds and were riding the Maritime Alps mountain ridge-line for the first time.  "Where do you think these people live up here?  I can't see anything but rock breaking through the clouds."  Yet, according to our map, we were approaching a small village to our left.  In the blink of an eye, the winds picked-up blowing the clouds apart and we instantly knew why we were brought to this very spot, having overcome numerous obstacles along the way, on that incredible September day in Italy!  No longer obstructed by the mountain itself, we were actually sitting on top of the world! We could feel the 'rush' of adrenaline course through us and relished how alive we felt, how in tuned with God and nature we were and, how we would hold this feeling within us forever.

When I close my eyes today, the shape of my memories of that view, that space in time, encompasses hundreds of dark, solid serrated edges criss-crossing one another and forming the pattern of an ancient, mystical game being played by the giants and gods who resided there.  Opening my eyes, I hold my breath until my mind aligns with my body and, exhaling....I find myself in the present although, not remembering how I got here. 




Walking in the Village of Bajardo

Driving into the village of Bajardo, we parked the car and walked along its narrow streets and tried to imagine calling this home.  Smiling and waving back at several 'locals' going about their daily business, we walked over to a short, stone wall and scanned the area around this village.  Tucked under the mountain's ridge across from us, we saw a farmhouse built into the mountainside and, just below it, furrowed fields of crops were skillfully maintained.  The scene was unbelievable, if not impossible to imagine if we hadn't seen it with our own eyes.  We were waking-up in Aix earlier this morning and now, here we were observing the patterns of life just below the sheltering cap of the enormous, blue Italian sky. 



City Anchored Along The Ridgeline

As though the gods purposely blew the clouds away for us, we now could see other villages that were anchored atop the ridge-lines in the distance.  I did not want to think about the roads that led their inhabitants home and this made me wonder how often some of these people even left the confines of their small village for the world far below.  Certainly, within the tight grip of winter, making such a trip would be close to impossible.  Given another day and much more time, we would have loved to attempt a conversation with anyone who could have supplied us with answers to our wondering questions. 

Farmhouse and Fields Tucked Under the Ridgeline

Time would be our undoing if we didn't utilize it well right now.  We had to continue our drive along the Strada Provenciale 61 (SP61) picking-up the SP62 through the town of Perinaldo and into Apricale da Delio but, not before my life flashed before me once again! Calm, cool and collected.....that's my husband, especially when he feels in complete control of a situation, even though my stress levels were rising into the stratosphere.....a place, at this height, that didn't seem too far away!



The narrow road that circumvented the mountains required artful maneuvering for oh, so many reasons.  With his driving confidence and ability shining brilliantly that day, I decided to call our daughter in Orlando and share this moment....provided there was enough signal.  Come to think about it, what obstacles could possibly be in their way from up there?  The sky?  An ocean?  Ali and Eric had spent their honeymoon in Florence, Italy, and often feel the Italian 'tug' on their heartstrings as we do with France. 

Unfortunately, Ali was grocery shopping and I missed her but, Eric picked-up after a few rings.  "Eric....hallo, Eric?  Hi!  Take a wild guess where Dad and I are calling you from right now?  No, no.  We're on an Italian mountaintop above Sanremo and the sea!  Yes, we're staying along the Cote d'Azure tonight, right near the beach and flying out of Nice early in th........Oh My God!"  My fingers froze around the phone in my hand and I found speech impossible.  The road, navigating the natural contours of the mountain itself, brought us to a tight, hairpin turn with nothing but sky and crumbling rock at its outer edge.  A wall of sheer rock loomed ahead as the road then took a right and climbed steeply up the mountain.  Did I happen to mention our car was a stick shift?  Not until Dan began to slow down in order to calculate the turn did I remember that Eric was, in a fashion, riding this out with us in Florida.

Heading Into Ventimiglia

I explained the scenario to Eric and asked him to hang-on.  "I love you, Dan....and, (gulp) I know you can do this, right?"  I recall him saying something like, "Have faith.  I know what I'm doing."  The only thing I was aware of was if he happened to miss the gear or not coordinate the clutch and gas pedals or, the car we'd saved from a French impound yard decided to go ballistic (relating to general physic's terminology, of course), we would be flying backwards down into the abyss with our son-in-law documenting our final flight!!  Let's just say....it would not be good.

Heading Back Into France

Climbing up the other side of the turn, I looked down to my right while incessantly murmuring new prayers of thankfulness.  "Jackie, is everything okay?"  Prying my fingers away from the cell phone and shifting it to the other hand, I informed Eric that we would live to see another day and we'd all get together shortly.  "Please tell Ali we love her." 

Large, fluffy clouds morphing from a 'fiendish' perspective to form a huge Valentine's heart would be the shape of this memory.  I'm sure it has everything to do with my grateful heart and the pure joy of placing my trust, my life, in the hands of someone who will always be there for me.  I did doubt Dan that afternoon along the crazy mountain road and I know that mad devil called 'fear' was sitting right there between us in the front seat. 

Cote d'Azur As Seen From Our Hotel Balcony

My Happy Dance!!!

We made it down off the mountains to the city of Ventimiglia.  It was nice and flat and right above sea level.  I remember doing a 'happy dance' after purchasing Italian candy for our two granddaughters.  We shot back up onto the A8 and were both a bit relieved to be back in France.  Making it to our hotel in Cagnes-sur-Mer before dark, we discovered we could walk to several restaurants and savored a delicious meal, alfresco, just off the Promenade de la Plage.  Enjoying a bottle of French wine together with our food, we discussed this wild and crazy final day of our trip and mutually decided it had been one of the most interesting ones we'd ever experienced.  Making a toast with a gentle 'ping' of French crystal vibrating in the dusk, we sat back in our chairs to watch the beautiful city of Nice light-up in the distance.  The golden light began to fill-in the darkness and the soft curvature of this famous coastline became more pronounced as the shimmering jewel of the Riviera burst into life across the darkening bay!

Dinner With Wine Along The Riviera

The shape of my memories from that languid and pleasurable evening would be in the form of jetliners converging over the sea and landing at the Nice Côte d'Azur Airport.  Next year?  Perhaps....

Nice Bursting Into Life