A series of short stories........
|
French Charm At It's Best |
.......as seen through my
By: Jacqueline E. Hughes
Claudine stood tall and strong
within her five-foot, three-inch frame as she verbally battled away in her
native French language. She was a proud soldier that morning, just on the
outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, and we were fortunate enough to have her on our
side!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Our
saga began, as it occasionally does, when attempting to find your hotel within a
city that blossoms out like an ancient, golden flower from the city center
(Centreville). And, you must tackle it by peeling it back, layer by layer,
pedal by pedal, until you recognize a street name or a fountain or a cathedral
that's been etched on your brain through months and months of research and
planning. Whew! In addition, we were entering Aix, population over 144,000
(not including tourists), at around five o'clock in the evening on a Friday
night in early September......
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Picking-Up Our Rental Car In Nice |
"This is like
looking for a needle in a haystack," Dan shouted, after turning down the same
one-way street for the third time. And, to make matters worse, our little, grey
Citroen rental car was literally crawling through a mass of humanity as we
navigated the tiny cobbled street again and again. "I'll try giving the hotel a
call. Maybe they can tell us how close we are." Dialing our cell, I reached
the desk clerk at the Hotel de France on the first try! Now it was a matter of
letting him know approximately where we were and have him tell us our current
relationship to 63 Rue Espariat, the address we were looking
for.
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Our View From Inside |
Exhausted and momentarily weary of
humanity, our destination for one night loomed in the distance.....like the
ancient structure it was, built of grey/black stone and shrouded in variegated
dark shadows......we were on the very edge of the old city center and the
maddening crowd was pouring in en masse for a lively evening of food, drink and
merriment. Soon, we hoped to be doing the
same.
Dan was delighted to find a small parking
lot with one space available adjacent to the hotel. So, we squeezed in for the
night and hauled our luggage back to our hotel to check-in. We were in such an
ideal location, really, with shops, restaurants, night life and the Cours
Mirabeau, the famed tree-lined avenue named for Honore Gabriel Riqueti, comte de
Mirabeau, a French politician who was a leader of the early stages of the
French revolution, just a few blocks away. I wish we had been there one day
earlier when the vendors lined the Cours Mirabeau with their magnificent wares
from homemade cheeses and breads to hand-printed and brightly colored
tablecloths making-up one of the largest street markets in Provence. We had
been to several in and around Sablet, the hilltop town in the Rhone valley where
we had rented a French gite (rental property) for the week, before leaving for
Aix to visit Claudine.
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Fontaine de la Rotonde |
Our little room
certainly reflected its age (after all, the building was constructed in the
seventeenth-century), but it was brimming with charm like champagne bubbles
escaping over the rim of a crystal flute. The tall French window, outlined with
heavy red-velvet draperies, now nearly faded to pink, opened up to the small
square below. If you twisted your head to the right, you were greeted by the
aged and glowing two-story neon sign announcing the presence of the Hotel de
France in the darkening night shadows. How we could have utilized this beacon
earlier in the evening!! We looked out of our window right down onto the famous
Fontaine de la Rotonde (fountain) surrounded by ancient cobblestones and people
as far as the eye could see!
Aix, known for
being a college town, constantly reflected its youthful exuberance everywhere we
went. The narrow streets were 'full of life' and the wide avenue and heart of
the old city, Cours Mirabeau, was jammed with locals, students, as well as
tourists from all around the world!
To
satiate an early hunger (brought on by stress, I'm sure), we stopped to watch an
Asian couple making enormous crepes in their tiny shop and filling each thin,
egg pancake with a variety of treats such as Nutella, peanut butter or several
kinds of cheese. I opted for a whole wheat crepe oozing with melted cheese,
folded in half and then folded again creating a perfect 'walk-as-you-eat'
delicacy. "This should do the trick until seriously deciding where to eat later
tonight," I proclaimed.
|
Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Malte |
Knowing beforehand we
had just a short time in Aix, a return visit was placed on our to-do list
because it was obvious that such a beautiful, historical city required several
days of judicious exploration to even begin to understand how unique and
exciting it is. From the Gothic architecture of Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Malte, a
thirteenth-century Roman Catholic church and the first to be built in Provence,
to the myriad of elaborate fountains, broad avenues lined with plane trees and
cafés, and grand houses built during the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries.....a time of great prosperity for Aix and it was once the capital of
Provence before political disputes and religious wars ended its reign.
|
Fountain of the Rotonde |
The following day was going to be one of our
'sweetest' yet 'busiest' days of this particular visit to France! Sweetest
because we were to meet our friend, Claudine, for an early breakfast at one of
the cafés lining Cour Mirabeau. Busiest because upon leaving Aix-en-Provence,
we were going to 'fly' down the E80, equivalent to our interstate highways, in
our little rental car and cross the boarder into Italy for a short visit before
heading back to our hotel near Nice for the night. Yes, we knew that Sunday
would be a (whirlwind) kind of day but with Claudine's company in the morning
and tucking ourselves in for a good night's rest in Nice on the evening before
flying home......life was looking really
good!!
All we had to do now was find a great
place to grab a late evening meal before heading back to the Hotel de France.
Tucked neatly off a small side street three blocks from our hotel, we
discovered a small, eight-top (perhaps ten) little gem of a restaurant where we
plunged into a light and satisfying repast complete with adequate amounts of
French baguette et beurre and a bottle of local Rhone Bourboulenc to compliment
the meal. Ah.....heaven on earth!
|
Claudine and Me |
Returning,
albeit lethargically, to our hotel, we decided to go via the parking lot to make
sure our car was okay and ready for our early departure. The lot remained
completely full and our travel 'lifeline' was happily settled-in for the night.
Now, it was our turn.
The morning brought us
sunshine and contentment, much needed after such a rocky adventure into
dreamland. Between the hotel's neon signage just outside our window and the
popular nightclub on the other side of the fountain, strobe lights, neon, music
and loud conversations swaddled us in their abundance of energy until after four
o'clock in the morning! With the sun playing off the bubbling water in the
fountain below our window in the square, Dan and I dressed and made our way down
to the lobby to meet Claudine.
|
Claudine, Ali and Florence |
We had been
introduced to Claudine the year before by her sister, Florence, who was a
neighbor and good friend of our daughter and son-in-law. Florence was born and
raised in the Luberon with her sister and two brothers. This area of France was
inserted into mainstream lifestyle and conversations by the popular books
written by author Peter Mayle beginning with A Year in Provence published in
1989. Two sisters could not be more unlike one another! While Florence left
France at an early age to explore life and work her way around the world,
Claudine has remained in Aix most of her adult life and holds a position at one
of the local colleges within their Language Department.
Entering the lobby, her bright smile sparkled
and warmed our hearts as it had done upon first meeting her a year ago in
Florida. "Bonjour mes amies! Comment ca va?" With a brief kiss on either
cheek for both of us, Dan and I followed her out into the morning sunshine for
our brisk walk to an open café along Cours Mirabeau for strong coffee,
croissants and warm conversation. Even though our time together was concise, we
caught-up with all the important aspects of our lives and then some. We told
her of our desire to return and she said that she would point-out several much
more comfortable places to stay that would guarantee us a better night's
sleep....if nothing else!
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The Perfect French Breakfast!! |
Since she had
walked from her apartment to meet us, we all walked back to the hotel before
sadly saying our good-byes. The three of us duly noted the occasional antique
car passing by us along the Rue de la Couronne and enjoyed how well restored and
maintained the American-made Ford and Chevrolet cars were and wondered if they
would be paraded down a main avenue sometime after our departure that morning.
And, with a heartfelt a bientot (until soon, I hope) liberally passed around
with Claudine's promise to be our personal guide on our return visit to Aix, we
watched her walk out of our lives once again before scurrying upstairs for our
luggage and the promise of Italian
vistas.
"What the hell is wrong?" was the best
I could come up with as I studied the stunned and lost expression glued to my
husband's face when he returned to our room carrying the same luggage he'd left
with moments ago. "It's gone, Jackie! Our car is gone!," Dan repeated. "What
do you mean gone? Was it stolen?" I asked. "If you mean by the gendarme, yes!
They towed it away to God only knows where along with every other car in the
lot." Speaking in torrents of pain and panic he continued, "I tried to talk to
the officer...in French even, to tell him we are tourists and it is a rental car
and ask him how do we get it back and he just pointed to one small paper sign
attached to a post and it was written in French. Then, he just turned away from
me altogether!" Evidently, the female gendarme at the scene at least told Dan
that the small paper sign informed car owners that this lot was to be evacuated
by eight o'clock that morning due to city business. At eight we were finishing
breakfast with Claudine and beginning our walk back to the
hotel.
|
Admiring the Antique Ford |
Pins and needles charged through my body
at lightening speed leaving me strangely petrified yet energized all at the same
time. "Can you go down there and speak to them in French?" Dan implored. "I'll
do one better," I stammered, as I reached for my cell phone to call Claudine. I
must have sounded like a babbling child as I attempted to quickly explain our
scenario over the phone but, she got the gist of it and told us not to move and
she'd meet with us up in our room. Mon Dieu, the French equivalent of OMG,
seemed particularly suitable right then. Especially when repeated over and over
and over again!
Ten minutes later, the three of
us were strategizing, with Claudine, clearly, being the most level-headed. "I
have never before owned a car or felt I needed to," she stated. "We will go
down and find out what's happening and just where your car has been towed and
take it from there, okay?" Leaving our luggage at the desk so that we could
check-out of our room, the three of us walked to the parking lot like soldiers
heading into battle. Claudine found the male officer and he was as evasive
with her, a local speaking his own language, as he had been with Dan. Assuming
he'd woken up on the wrong side of the bed, she turned to the female officer and
ascertained that our car was towed to the car impound yard on the outskirts of
Aix and that we would need cash only to pay the fines and, hopefully, get it
back on a Sunday morning. OMG....here we go again! Didn't see that one
coming!
Not only did we not see the small sign
(tacked-up just before the towing festivities began, I'm sure), but we missed
the deadline by mere minutes even if we had. Next, we needed cash and the
assurance that someone was working at the impound yard on a Sunday and willing
to accept said cash in exchange for the release of our rental car. As Dan ran
over to the nearest ATM, Claudine and I looked around the emptying lot. Tears
welled-up in my eyes as it slowly registered that the antique vehicles we ogled
only a short time before were being driven and parked into the newly emptied
spaces of the lot to be placed on public display here for the day. What? Did
the spirits of Detroit just manifest long enough to bite us in the ass? I do
believe they did....
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Aix Impound Yard (Fourriere) |
Claudine hailed a cab and
we rode to the impound yard (fourriere). In order to prove that the rental car
was legally ours, they allowed Dan access to the glove box to extract our rental
agreement. Now, we were to conduct business with a gentleman located behind a
small, white window. Claudine, of course, did most of the talking.
Occasionally, we saw her expression soften and then tighten-up as her
conversation with the man became more emphasized and animated. She kept us
informed of the pertinent details and discovered we would need to pay a cash
fine for the towing and related fees that day and then we had ninety days to pay
the fine for the actual ticket that had been written. Total for the two fines
was nearly two-hundred Euro with eighty Euro due immediately.
We stood at that window like three Musketeers
until paperwork had been typed-up and signed, money exchanged and receipt
printed out.....around forty-five minutes to an hour in total. The man handed
us the ticket with instructions for payment and gave us permission to enter our
vehicle. Nice! As we were driving back into town to park in an underground
ramp (our initial mistake), Claudine filled us in on her earlier emotional
discussion. "I asked him if he thought this was any way to treat Americans who
came to France to spend their money and invest in our city through tourism.
Should we not treat tourists with respect so that they will return and bring
others with them?" she declared. He told her this was not his problem, simple
as that. Claudine told us it was a tact (savoir-faire) that she hoped would
soften his heart and make him see reason. I love her....even if it didn't
actually work!
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Claudine and a Very Grateful Husband |
Oui, bien sur (yes, of course),
the BIG question that still haunts us even to this day is, how would we have
accomplished all of this without the assistance of Mademoiselle Claudine Usai?
My only answer to this would be: In the best manner we knew how to at the time.
Hopefully, we would have found someone willing to help us, was a local and had
the time, and who spoke fluent French and enough English to fill-in-the blanks
for us. Just as we have an abundance of helpful souls here in the United
States, there are many good people to be found worldwide! If you require an
example....just think of Claudine. If you don't believe kindness exists in a
large, metropolitan French city, think
again!!
***Let me know if you'd like to hear what
happened after we finally left Aix-en-Provence that Sunday morning. If I have
enough interested readers, I will make this my next
blog.
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Cafes and Shops Along The Cours Mirabeau |
Copyright
© 2014 by Jacqueline E. Hughes
All rights
reserved