A series of short stories.....
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| A Feast For Two |
.....as seen through my eyes!
By: Jacqueline E. Hughes
Several years ago, in celebration of our
Wedding Anniversary, my husband and I decided to return to France. This time,
the play of warmth and light in sunny Provence called to us like a lavender
scent carried along by a gentle breeze.
Research of the many beautiful
hilltop villages that dot the southern landscape of France began around a year
before our September celebration. Considering it was to mark our initial
venture into this particular region, we concentrated on several main criteria
which included a central location to the major sites we wished to explore this
trip, convenience to and from the Nice Cote d'Azur Airport via rental car, as
well as successfully finding the perfect gite (furnished vacation rental home)
to comfortably spend a week in. We wanted our place to be a home away from
home!
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| Grapevines Below Sablet |
Personally, researching a trip is my favorite part because I learn
so much about the area long before we even arrive there. We concentrated on the
Vaucluse Region for many reasons, with the wines of the Rhone River valley being
of particular interest to us. I wanted to learn about these cultivated vines
that had been initially planted sometime around 600 BC and walk the small
alleyways of the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape tasting samples of each variety
of this heavenly nectar of the gods passed down through the
ages!
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| Roussillon on a Stormy Day |
Avignon....Bedoin....Carpentras, slowly we discovered the towns and
villages of the Vaucluse via the Internet. Roussillon was exceptionally
beautiful and noted for its large ochre deposits found in the clay surrounding
it. Alas, we did not choose this magical place for our stay. The day we
actually visited Roussillon, the entire village was basked in a red hue
everywhere you looked. A large storm was heading directly toward us creating a
brilliant backdrop of deep color and light making picture taking phenomenal that
afternoon.
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| Hilltop Village of Sablet with the Jagged Dentelles de Montmiraile as Backdrop |
We discounted the stunning hilltop village of Gordes because
of its strong tourist appeal; Beaumes Du Venise ranked exceptionally high on our
list meeting all of our criteria and more but, I just wasn't feeling 'it' yet.
And then I was introduced to a small, walled city located north of Orange by the
name of Sablet and the 'warm fuzzies' (as my daughter, Ali, calls them) suddenly
enveloped me in a feeling of profound security as though I were wrapped in a
favorite blanket on a cold, winter's night. I felt I had discovered 'home'
within the Vaucluse. Our 'gite' had to be located in Sablet because I could feel
it in my bones that day.
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| Front Door of Sablet House |
Fast forward to a warm, overcast day in
mid-September and two people partake of a simple but delicious feast purchased
that morning at the open-market of Bedoin near Mont Ventoux. Elongated French
radishes, the color of delicate red and white flowers, rest on a hand-painted
porcelain dish, a still life photograph waiting to be captured. Similar
platters and bowls cradle juicy, red strawberries hand-picked merely hours
before. A variety of French cheeses, ripe Brie headlining the aromatic medley,
are displayed on a wooden cutting board and positioned alongside a shallow bowl
containing a golden loaf of crusty baguette anticipating being pulled-apart,
slathered in rich, homemade butter and eaten with reverence and love! A
slightly chilled bottle of local Northern Rhone red, often identified by its
signature aromas of green olives and smoky bacon, regally stands at attention
waiting to be uncorked so that it may 'breathe' before being poured into the
crystal glasses beside it.
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| Dan Pressing Our Breakfast Coffee |
We were sitting at one of the two terraces
that made-up the outdoor living area of (Sablet House), owned by Michel and
Shirley Augsburger who purchased the beautiful stone village house located in
the heart of the medieval village of Sablet. Michel relates how "...the house
was fully renovated by an English lady with all of the comforts of a modern home
while retaining its authentic Provençal character and charm." Located just off
of the gourmet kitchen, two sets of French doors led us out to our Anniversary
luncheon feast on this large terrace. We could not believe our good fortune but
relished it with gusto!!
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| A Morning Visit to the Local Boulangerie |
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| Bell Tower of Saint Nazaire |
Sablet, along with Sablet House, was our home
for a week and we fell in love with each one. This feeling lingers within us to
this day. The village of Sablet, 1,200 souls strong, is located at the base of
the jagged Dentelles de Montmiraile in the Vaucluse region of Provence. The
narrow streets of the village spiral up to the Romanesque Church of Saint
Nazaire built in the 12th century and tops the village with its majestic bell
tower that reaches up towards the heavens. The stone village houses curl along
the narrow streets that reveal passageways adorned with flowers of every color,
expose ancient wooden beams and a variety of beautiful stone fountains. Along
the lower terrace of the village we discovered two boulangeries (bakeries), a
boucherie (butcher shop), a florist and a tabac shop among several local
restaurants and more. Dan would walk down to his favorite boulangerie each
morning for his pain au chocolate (chocolate croissants) and then run back up to
our house to press coffee to go with them.
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| Biking Up To Seguret |
Michel had purchased new
bicycles prior to our arrival and we enjoyed the privilege of touring the
charming village streets, as well as biking up the D23 towards another hilltop
village, Seguret, with its elevation overlooking Sablet and the many vineyards
surrounding it. Riding down from Seguret, I captured my first picture of 'cloud
to land' lightening strikes as it crashed far off in the distance to the west of
Sablet. I was as excited as a child with her first camera!
Sablet was
the perfect location to begin a day of exploration. Packing our silver Citroen
rental car with essential goodies including a camera and an empty market basket
that we planned to fill with fresh produce as we stopped in towns and villages
along our way. Conveniently, Michel posted the 'open market' schedules in our
kitchen which made it easier for us to decide which direction to explore each
day.
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| Small Stone Chapel in Nyons |
We drove north and were charmed by the beauty of Nyons and climbed
to the very top cloaked in a soft September mist as we navigated its narrow
streets by foot. Our reward for the climb was a beautiful small, stone chapel
and a spectacular view of the town and vineyards below.
We drove south
as far as the ancient village of Les Baux-De-Provence and discovered for
ourselves why it is classified as "one of the most beautiful villages in
France." It is an ancient village, carefully restored and only accessible by
foot. At the summit of the village rests the ruins of the Citadel des Baux
(ancient fortress) where the views are absolutely endless.
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| Below the Pont du Gard |
We drove west
to the ancient Roman aqueduct bridge, Pont du Gard, that crosses the Gardon
River near Nimes. The bridge has three levels and may date as far back as 20
BC!
Venturing eastward, we went antique shopping in the picturesque
village of L'Isle-sur-la Sorgue, enjoyed a delicious lunch at an open terrace
just outside The Palace of the Pope in the city of Avignon and, late one rainy,
overcast afternoon, we discovered the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Walking
inside a 'cave' (wine cellar) we joined others who were interested in learning
the history behind the Rhone wine region. We were not disappointed. The
hour-long demonstration was constantly laced by questions and answers and we
walked away quite happy with our newfound knowledge of area wines.
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| Entering a Cave at Chateauneuf-du-Pape |
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| Learning the History of Rhone River Valley Wines |
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| Our View From the Upper Terrace |
As
spectacular as each of these daily adventures were, we took great comfort in the
knowledge that we would be returning to our 'home' in Sablet in the evenings,
kicking off our shoes and relaxing on the smaller upper terrace that adjoined
the Master Bedroom. Here we observed the stars sparkling above the Dentelles
in the distance.
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| The Romance and Beauty of Sablet House |
Standing side-by-side holding hands and with a glass
of local Rosé raised in the air with the other, we gave cheers and praise to
this small, hilltop village we called our home for a short time that glorious
September in Provence....
To see Michel's Sablet House visit:
www.sablethouse.com
To see Marianne Houlahan's House in Sablet go to:
www.sablethome.com
Copyright © 2014 By Jacqueline E.
Hughes
All rights reserved
Great read Jackie!
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