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| The Simple Life of the French Countryside |
.....as seen through my eyes!
By: Jacqueline E. Hughes
My heart was lost to France as a young child via her language, people and stunningly memorable landmarks! Eighth grade French class secured this belief as the French lifestyle, habits (one reason why I may have endeared cigarette smoking throughout my college years), cuisine and history lit up my being with tingling excitement and an imminent lust for travel....and, frankly, all things relating to France in general!
My soul was lost to France the moment my feet touched her soil for the very first time back in August of 1990! It's funny... Most people recall their first glimpse of this magical place by the first sight of La Tour Eiffel or the sweet taste of street vendor crêpes melting on your tongue and purchased along the Tuileries Gardens as a light breakfast before investigating the Louvre for hours. No. I initially entered France via automobile along a roaring super highway, the E60, upon leaving Freiburg, Germany. After paying exorbitant tolls every other kilometer or so, we headed for the first official exit and drifted comfortably into the French countryside.
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| ~Le Parc des Marechaux~ Auxerre, France |
With traffic behind us and our destination the town of Auxerre, situated in Burgundy, for the night, we found ourselves at peace following a meandering, fast-flowing river complete with mini-rapids and a small waterfall. Stopping along the side of the narrow road to take pictures, I opened the car door and was introduced to my destiny as my right foot touched-down on the firm, French soil for the very first time! I had made it, at last!!
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| Envelope of Letter Returned to Me Late 1989 For Reservations In August of 1990 |
Not having the ease of Internet access back then, our stays within larger cities and hotels were reserved via telephone communication. Connecting with small Bed & Breakfast establishments, our preferred choice to stay at, was accomplished via the mail and several painstakingly hand-written letters in French sent to the owner/manager whose names I had secured from various publications such as BIRNBAUM'S EUROPE 1989 and Karen Brown's FRENCH COUNTRY BED & BREAKFASTS, the ultimate travel guide offering the opportunity to meet the French who welcome travelers into their homes!
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| Most Helpful Travel Companion |
Assuming any of Mademoiselle's "Charming Bed & Breakfasts of France with Descriptions of Over 160 Inexpensive Places to Stay" exist to this day, my question would be, how many of them are still owned and operated by a local......a Frenchperson? How many of these delightful B&B's of France have surrendered to our changing times? How many still thrive today, as quaint and wholesome as they were back in 1990, but under new owners or management? I had to know...
Choosing three places from FRENCH COUNTRY BED & BREAKFASTS based mainly upon the criterion of their location (near towns and villages we have been to since our 1990 visit), I set to work on the Internet.
Then: LA JACQUELINIERE B&B, located in the Loire Valley near the village of Vernou en Sologne. Owned and hosted by Jacqueline and Auguste Bahuaud. Two rooms, both with shower or bath, share one WC....water closet/toilet.
Now: L'OREE DU BOIS, with same address as above and current picture resembling pencil sketch from Karen Brown's book. Current owners are Danielle and Bernard Schussler.
Notes: Retained as a privately run Guest House with two rooms by new owners after twenty-four years. Perhaps a bit of 'bleeding over' from the Alsace area or Germany with the last name of Schussler.
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| La Jacqueliniere Bed & Breakfast |
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| L'Oree du Bois Bed & Breakfast |
Then: CHEZ DELESSE, located in the Region of Provence near the ancient Roman town of Vaison la Romaine. Owned and hosted by François and Claude Delesse. One room with private bath.
Now: CHEZ DELESSE, at same address as above with nearly identical description and same pencil sketch of property. François and Claude have addressed additional income by adding another bedroom that shares the original bath, and a 'spacious' apartment located in a separate wing.
Notes: The romantic side of me likes to think that these two young people, recently involved in the late 1980's, acquired this property with a two to three part plan of making their very own Gite grow and thrive as they grew older and more comfortable together each year! Just a writer's fantasy, perhaps..... Considering the name François is masculine, equivalent to the English name Francis, I am hoping he and Claude have adopted several kids by now. They deserve them. And this beautiful family has entered the new millennium in France with the understanding and acceptance due to them. Just saying....! This has been my 'Artistic License' forum for the day!
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| Chez Delesse.....Then! |
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| Now....Should Read: 175 Year-Old Stone House |
Then: CHEZ KRUMEICH, located in the town of Betschdorf in the Alsace area and is 44 kilometers northeast of Strasbourg. Owned and hosted by Christian and Joelle Krumeich. This region of France is known for its blue-toned stoneware and Christian represents the ninth generation of potters in his family. Three guest rooms with private WC and bath are located above their large pottery workshop.
Now: CHEZ KRUMEICH, same address as above and still owned and operated by Christian and Joelle. Upgraded from three to four private rooms, fax number added, and noted on the Michelin Map.
Notes: This establishment last appeared in Brown's 2006 publication, Karen Brown's France B&B: Exceptional Places To Stay.
It is amazing that all three of these Bed & Breakfast choices may exist today in one form or another. Even though one has come under new ownership and its name has changed, it remains open as a B&B serving tourists from around the world. The nightly rates, designated nearly a quarter of a century ago, has changed from French Francs to modern-day Euros however, the amount for each private guest room has only risen by a very low percentage throughout the years. This leads me to believe that the people who initially opened their charming homes to the weary traveler did so with the intent of offering everyone the welcoming feeling of being treated as a cherished guest in a friend's home without the expectancy of becoming wealthy as a direct result of their endeavors.
"The Bed & Breakfast formula is for any traveller with a taste for adventure who wants to experience the 'real' France, its people and culture," says French Country Bed & Breakfasts. In France, the B&B is called 'Chambres d'Hotes' and literally means guest bedrooms. As in the United States, the way of life outside of a large city is a fascinating reflection of each country's history and culture. "The impact of modern civilization is felt, but a pronounced respect for traditions and quality of life remains."
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| Organization Representing Cottage Rental and Guest Homes in France |
Another French term for a holiday home (usually freestanding) available for rent is a Gite. Gites are generally fully furnished and equipped for self-catering. Technically, to be called a Gite, the owner must live close by in order to provide help, assistance, and a warm welcome to guests.
My favorite quote that I feel lovingly compelled to share with you is: "Outside of Paris, the land is like a treasure chest filled with wonders of nature and civilization. There are royal forests still inhabited by stags and wild boars, graceful castles beside peaceful lakes, picturesque stone and half-timbered villages, colorful vineyards and farmlands, medieval walled cities and wild, salty coastlines all waiting to be discovered."
To this I would like to add that the B&B system offers us all of the above and so much more....without even trying. A stay at one of these establishments provides local answers to any and all of your questions, ample opportunities to meet other travelers and sit with, relax and learn from your conversations together. The chance to meet your hosts and their families, as well, while making many lasting contacts and friends along the way. If you are a 'people person' and you enjoy the opportunity to expand your horizons via simple conversation with others.....this system is for you.
Level of comfort and luxury are as individual and varied as the people and homes you will be visiting. With Internet access today, it is simple to look-up the rates, see a photo gallery and read the descriptions of each private room in order to make a choice that is perfect for you. Especially helpful are the comments by fellow travelers who have visited the Chambres d'Hotes before you and offer to describe their personal experiences, good, bad or indifferent.
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| Another Handy Guide Used For Our Initial European Journey |
It was a pleasure to have once again connected with such positive past experiences and bring them to light here in 2015! Do not be afraid to venture out and experience the unspoiled and less visited regions of France. Paris is dazzling....this is so true, and it would take a lifetime of visits to be able to take most of this beautiful city in. However, a Bed & Breakfast experience is personal, superior in cleanliness and comfort, and is as varied as the landscape itself. "Spend a night in a chateau dating from the Middle Ages whose stone walls ooze with history, and the next night experience the sights and sounds of a simple farm surrounded by bucolic pasturelands."
People will remain the same, for the most part, even after twenty-five years have flown swiftly by! We will always seek the simple comfort of one another's company for companionship, knowledge and friendship's sake....! The experience of traveling abroad to France can be greatly enhanced by taking every opportunity to meet and interact with others and share life's adventures around a breakfast table or in the study by a warm, crackling fire.
Happy travels to ALL in 2015.....!
Copyright © 2015 By Jacqueline E. Hughes
All rights reserved
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