LE JOURNAL 4: NAVIGATING WALES

 

A series of essays….

SNOWDON AND LLYN LLYAW ON A BLISSFUL SEPTEMBER DAY

….as seen through my eyes!

By: Jacqueline E Hughes

Wales consists of a myriad of small paved roads, but mostly even narrower lanes that we might call ‘two tracks’ composed of two dirt tracks carved by the tires that utilize them, day-in and day-out, and the natural grass that grows between them.   

The main, paved roads, will eventually get you through small towns, as well as draw one into populated areas such as Cardiff in the south or Anglesey to the north. Some of the main roads meander across the mountain ridges with an open expanse of land and sky that can blow your mind with its natural beauty and soften the heart by placing humans in their proper perspective with the planet we inhabit. 

I believe we drove on nearly each and every road and lane that spoked-out from our cozy little stone cottage in Llansilin along the Wales and English border. We learned quickly that it was necessary to recalculate our way of thinking when it came to travel time from any given place to another. In the States, we generally calculate driving time at approximately one minute per mile, or highway travel at sixty miles per hour. Mostly due to the narrow lanes, constant twists and turns, and, literally, squeezing by other vehicles along the way, we had to mentally prepare ourselves for the reality of traveling in Wales. 

THE SMALL ‘TWO TRACKS’ ROADS OF WALES

SAMPLES OF ROADS AS WE
NAVIGATED WALES

If we were to plan a trip, let’s say, from Kalamazoo to South Haven, we would assume travel time to be around a thirty minute drive. Navigating Wales, this same trip would take nearly five times as long; in essence, a thirty minute drive has now become close to two and a half hours. This is no exaggeration and I can’t even imagine if we had to deal with major downpours or(heaven forbid) snow!

Dan and I have always opted to rent a car and navigate our destinations ourselves via maps and/or GPS. It’s been our desire to feel close to the local  people by being able to go and stop wherever and whenever we want to. It has, usually, worked very well for us in other places throughout the years, including the narrow roads of Ireland and Scotland. 

The topography of Wales, which includes the arrangement of its natural and artificial physical features, lends itself beautifully to this curvaceous rhythm and pattern which includes mountain ranges, waterfalls, rock formations, stone bridges, ancient stone farmhouses (never to be relocated), and churches that help to denote populated settlements from hundreds of years before.

Navigating Wales includes knowing that there is no straight route to anywhere or anything. Nothing is flat. Even the roads along the coastline coming up from the sea have you climbing up to the heavens, and looking back, the view from there is nothing less than spectacular! Our day trip along the coastline heading down to St. Davids and Pembrokeshire was time consuming (but, with spectacular views of the sea, mountains, and rolling green landscapes—who really cares?). Stopping in small, coastal villages to eat and take a walk to stretch tightened muscles and weary bones was always a memorable reprieve from car travel.

ABERARTH ALONG ST. GEORGE’S CHANNEL

ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL

ALONG PEMBROKESHIRE NATIONAL PARK

In order to fully enjoy the beauty of Wales and her people, I would highly recommend to adjust your visit accordingly. Our allotted week should have stretched to at least two or three in order to justify exploring all of Wales. Or, if one week is all you have, may I suggest dividing Wales into two sections and exploring one half on your initial visit and the second half at another time. The whole of Wales may be small in size (8024 square miles and slightly smaller than the state of New Jersey), but her natural beauty packs such a powerful and everlasting punch that you will want to return again and again.

One of our favorite days was finding the road leading to the mountains of  Snowdonia in the county of Gwynedd, Wales. How does one lose an entire mountain in the first place, you might ask. Having a husband/fellow traveler with a creative sense of humor often leads to unique scenarios. 

Snowdonia National Park covers most of Gwynedd County and consists of mountains comprised of old hard rock cut by Ice Age glaciers. The park takes its name from Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa in Welsh), a peak with an elevation of 3,560 feet, and the highest point in England and Wales. Snowdon lies in the middle of this ancient mountain range and can be difficult to pinpoint due to its central location, as well as the lack of signage along the roads leading up to it. A rack-and-pinion railway (opened in 1896), similar to the clink-clank of a climbing roller coaster, runs from the village of Llanberis to the summit and down to the base on the other side of Snowdon. It has easily become the pride and joy of Snowdonia.

Leaving our little stone cottage on our way to Snowdonia National Park to the  west, Dan decided, since we’d been driving near and around the park for several days, not to use GPS or maps or his navigator wife to guide him. The small lanes we navigated twisted, turned, followed open mountain ridges with meandering sheep our trusty companions, and sunk low into green valleys where tall hedges running along each side of our car often blocked our views of the Welsh landscape. As tourists attempting to capture the beauty of Wales as much as possible, these hedges (purposed by the farmers of the region to secure privacy for themselves) were very unsettling. The roads, already tunnel-like, now seemed sunken and gave us an eerie claustrophobic feeling as the colors green and sky blue totally encased us.

Making it over to where I perceived Snowdon to be, Dan would say, There it is! Let’s get out and take some pictures! After a third stop for pictures and much skepticism and questioning on my part, his grin flashed a mile wide. Was he really trying to avoid visiting Snowdon and trying to pass off so many different mountains as the famed Snowdon with its scenic railroad route?

Following the A5 west and with a brief stop at the very touristy village of Betws-y-Coed, I purchased a paperback novel at the local bookstore and a bottle of water for the road. We swung left onto the A4086 at Capel Curig and I thought, Now we’re getting somewhere! Again, not many signs (if any at all) directing us to the beloved Snowden. 

Thinking back on it now, maybe that was the point in the first place. Maybe if our hearts and minds were in the right place, we didn’t need anyone directing us to this stunning, iconic mountain nestled in the middle of some of the most dynamic  Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) that Wales has to offer.

Turning south onto the A498 and following others looking up in awe at the sheer height and shadowed beauty of Snowdon, we parked along a short rock wall that separated us from the base of the mountain and Llyn Llydaw, the lake that gently curves and hugs its base along the southeast side and is said to be one of the possible locations associated with Excalibur’s Lady of the Lake fame.

PICTURES OF THE WANING 
GIBBOUS MOON

SEPTEMBER 1, 2023
TRAVELING HOME FROM SNOWDON

Taking pictures of the natural beauty that surrounded us was a privilege. The sun showered its golden light down upon Snowdon and the impressive lake, creating multi-colored shadows on the side of the mountain and sparkling lights on the lake’s surface as if it was a spectacular holiday light show! And the people, including Dan and myself, couldn’t speak as we tried to capture this moment in time and hold it deep within us….for a lifetime.

It took us at least ten minutes to formulate real words after leaving Snowdon and I’m not often speechless. So, why were you playing games with me earlier about the correct location of the mountain?, I asked, as Dan navigated us back down to pickup the A5 and head home. Was it just your attempt at being funny and trying to mess with me?

Well, I figured that by navigating all of those small roads and crossing over narrow bridges and being off of the beaten track would be the best way to see more of Wales in its true light, he said, as he maneuvered onto a narrow lane with another car heading directly toward us. Dan slowly came to a complete stop with our car tipping slightly sideways up the green bank, directly into the shadow of the tall, grassy hedges. 

After the other car passed, with a cursory wave from its driver, we turned towards one another and began laughing until the tears obstructed our vision. Catching our breath, Dan finally said, Let’s get back home. We’re only ten miles away but, according to my calculations—it’s going to take us about an hour to get there. And, he was absolutely right!

   THE RED DRAGON OF WALES

                                                  REPRESENTS THE WELSH PEOPLE’S

                                           FIGHTING SPIRIT AND RESILIENCE

Copyright © 2023 by Jacqueline E Hughes

All rights reserved

Photos Copyright © 2023 by Jacqueline E Hughes

All rights reserved

GENERATIONS OF EMBRACING YOUR INNER CHILD

 

A series of essays….

FIVE OF THE CUTEST TRICK-OR-TREATERS—EVER!

….as seen through my eyes!

By: Jacqueline E Hughes

It really doesn’t take much more than a keen imagination to enjoy the true meaning of Halloween. It’s simply a matter of having fun and allowing our inner child to lead the way—even if it’s for only one day each year!

As a daughter, mom, and grandmother myself, I’ve enjoyed many years of getting into the Halloween spirit, either through my own children or their children, and holding on to the inner child within me. It might be as simple as turning on the porch light and hoping to have the neighborhood kids and their friends step-up on the porch fully costumed and excited to receive their treat.

Because there are so few children who come down our dead-end street (appropriately named), we’ve resorted to becoming the cool house on the block by passing out full-sized candy bars and keeping the porch light on until after eight. 

We haven’t dressed-up in a costume for quite some time, but have never lost the true spirit that acknowledges this quirky time of the year. As grandma, I’ve walked around our daughter’s neighborhood with our son-in-law taking the  grands from house to house in search of free sugary delights.  Later, the candy would be sorted on the living room floor, exchanged between one another according to personal tastes, and gratefully offered to the adults in the room if the treat did not meet expectations. 

THE NIGHT’S BOUNTY IS
DIVIDED AND CONQUERED

As a child, I’ve walked side-by-side with my older brother down one block after another at Halloween. I still marvel at the ingenuity of my Mom when it came to making costumes for us. With money constraints in mind and having been a child of the Great Depression, she would always ask us what we would like to be each Halloween and then set out to make it happen—stretching her imagination and materials as far as humanly possible. 

Ronnie became a hobo who carried his belongings in a large scarf that was tied to a long stick and hoisted on his shoulder. I recall him parodying a player of many sports (baseball, football, tennis, and basketball). My costumes ranged from a colorful butterfly with gossamer wings attached to my shoulders, similar to the straps on my school backpack, to a clown with colorful clothes and wearing a thick, red smile on my face.

One Halloween, sacrilegious or not, I asked Mom if I could be the Blessed Virgin. I was at the age when attending a Catholic grade school and learning about helping those in need made a significant impact on many of us kids and I was beginning to see myself dressed all in white and taking the vows of ‘missionary sisterhood’ in order to travel all over the world to help others. Granted, this seems self serving in every way considering my love for travel was always in the back of my mind. But, so was the kindness towards those in need that the nuns preached to us about every day.

While dressed in a light blue robe and veiled in a soft, white material that was held tight with a plastic headband, Ronnie and I set out to fill the pillow cases we held with goodies. We were making good headway when we came upon a house a distance away from home that had kids shaking their heads as they walked off the porch. Don’t bother, one boy said. When we got to the door it was opened with a squeak and an older lady, standing not much taller than myself, handed us a slice of white bread saying, This is all I have, but I wanted to give you something and see all of your fine costumes tonight! 

Ronnie scoffed and turned to navigate her porch steps back down to the sidewalk. Looking into her tired eyes, I saw how sincere she was and patted her hand while thanking her for her ‘treat.’ Her smile was well worth it. Lessons were learned that particular Halloween and I will never forget her impact on me.

Dan and I decided to prank Ali and Eric one Halloween by dressing-up, identities disguised as a dirty, old man (mask) for Dan and I became Mike Myers from the movie, Halloween. We lived in Orlando at the time and traveled forty-five minutes to their house in Champions Gate. They opened the front door to our chorus of trick-or-treat as we proceeded to walk directly into their foyer invading their space and wondering how they’d react to such pushy trick-or-treaters.

They were way too polite and asked what was going on and if we would please step back onto the porch. When we heard the bit of panic in our daughter’s voice, we removed our masks and received a pummeling from her in return. Even though that was close to eighteen years ago, I believe there was a lesson learned that night, as well. 

Mom may have used what materials she had lying around the house to fulfill our Halloween dreams, but our daughters are more than happy to purchase these dreams for their kids from the local pop-up Halloween shop or an online store and have it delivered to their house. There are flashbacks of Woody from the movie Toy Story, a Michigan State cheerleader, a Ninja Warrior, a smiling, blue Narwhal, a French chef, and numerous Disney Princesses throughout the years.

Still, my favorite was the costume she put together for her son when he was two years old. We called him the ‘Little Man.’ With a gray Fedora covering his blond/white hair, Oxford shirt and tie, patterned vest, and dress pants with black shoes—the piece de resistance had to be his hand drawn mustache and snappy smile. 

WHAT A HANDSOME ‘LITTLE MAN’

My generation of Halloween moms kept McCall’s, Butterick, and Vogue sewing patterns in business. And, for the most part, we cut out and sewed together the ghastly witches, perky Raggedy Anns, princesses, Wonder Woman, orange and red clowns, pale blue fairies with gossamer wings costumes, plus so many more! I enjoy sewing and this was the perfect opportunity to savor the results of my efforts and share them  with my kids each year.

The ‘Perfect Halloween Storm’ arrived when we lived on State Street (a main road) in Eaton Rapids back in the early ‘80’s and our Victorian home was the ideal setting for it to happen. The weather was warm, the sidewalks were trafficked by local trick-or-treaters, as well as all of the children hauled in from the surrounding rural areas. We provided the somber porch lighting and sound affects to set the mood which included a frightening Halloween cassette playing on one of the kid’s boomboxes set-up in the corner of the foyer. The lights flashed off and on and the thick eight foot tall, oak entrance door squeaked when slightly moved.  

That year, including running back to the store to replenish our candy stock, we counted approximately 550 pieces of candy given out. Not to mention sharing a million laughs, the wide-eyed looks from those under five years old, a few tears from over stimulated porch visitors, and happy parents wearing broad smiles as their little munchkins held up their opened containers to have us add to their night’s bounty. 

Three generations of women. Three generations of moms getting in touch with their inner child. Three generations of doing it their own way with the outcome being just as charming and delightful for each child involved. Kudos to all of the men who have worked just as hard throughout the years to place smiles on the faces of their little ones. There is something quite magical about Halloween; a celebration of fun and the lack of inhibitions that sparks genuine enthusiasm and sharpens the imagination in all of us.

Hope you enjoyed your Halloween this year…!

Copyright © 2023 by Jacqueline E Hughes 

All rights reserved

LE JOURNAL 3: HADRIAN’S WALL WITH AN ADDED SURPRISE

 

A series of essays….

HADRIAN’S WALL RUNS ALONG THE ORIGINAL
BOARDER BETWEEN SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND

….as seen through my eyes!

By: Jacqueline E Hughes 

Have you ever had mysterious sounding lyrics of a song hold tight in your imagination for as log as you can remember? The tune from it whistling through your head never to relinquish its power upon you? You played it for years on your parents’ electric keyboard/organ that sat against the paneled wall in the dining room. Ultimately, you find yourself standing along the shoreline of the song’s central character in the Scottish Highlands years later, surrounded by its mysteries and sheer beauty.

I deftly slipped a large stone from the cold, shallow waters of Loch Lomond on that trip five years ago to take home, bringing everything full circle. We stood on the banks of the loch in a small village called Luss after enjoying a beef pie at the Loch Lomond Arms for lunch.

ALONG THE BANKS OF LOCH LOMOND
IN THE VILLAGE OF LUSS

Driving north along the shoreline of this long, finger-like loch, we were looking for a spot to hike in the woods. The entire time we inhaled the beauty of the loch marveling at the sun’s ability to spray a coat of sparkles on its surface from east to west while we hummed (sang) the chorus to the song, Loch Lomond.

Chorus: O ye'll tak the high road an' I'll tak the low 

I'll be in Scotland afore ye 

For me and my true love will never meet again 

By the bonnie bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond 

Little did I know then how we would be affected by this catchy tune five years later on our recent trip to Wales and England.

This leg of our journey began with Dan’s humble desire to see, stand alongside, and touch Hadrian’s Wall located a few miles south of the present Scottish boarder and along the English countryside. Stretching from coast to coast at a length of 73 miles, it has been severely shortened of its original 12 foot height and 8 foot width by area farmers using the available stones to create houses and border fences throughout the centuries.

Hadrian’s Wall, its remains denoting the northern defensive fortifications of the Roman Emperor, Hadrian, in his quest to block the savages (Scots) living north of the wall from entering Britannia. Building began in 122 AD, beginning west of Carlisle and stretching east to New Castle upon Tyne near the North Sea.

Preparing for yet another long driving excursion several weeks ago from our base camp (little stone cottage) in the village of Llansilin, County Powys, Wales, Dan and I conducted a quick checklist of what we needed to bring with us for the day before getting into our Peugeot rental car and heading north. Dan’s anticipation was spreading joyfully across his face.

Leaving early, we caught up with the morning work commuters just northeast in the town of Wrexham—the place built (most recently) by Ryan Reynolds and his business partner, Rob McElhenney after their investment in the Wrexham Association Football Club. I hear the team has been doing very well these days!

Pushing through the Wrexham traffic, we drove by the city of Liverpool where (dare I say it) we crossed the (River) Mersey heading north to the Lake District following the M6. We were making good time on our journey up to Carlisle and Hadrian’s Wall as the sun rose in the sky, welcoming us with all of its warmth and glory! It was a beautiful morning.

We arrived in the town of Windermere in the heart of the Lake District, a stones throw from The World of Beatrix Potter Attraction, and enjoyed delicious coffee and breakfast in the center of the town as we comfortably people watched and sipped even more coffee. Leaving Windermere, the northern backroads took us through winding hilltops graced by tall, swaying grasses and honey-colored stone. It was one of the prettiest drives we’d taken, so far, north of Wales.

Making it back to the M6, we turned to the northeast and, while under the shadows of Carlisle Castle, headed towards the town of Brampton. Not being too far from the borderline between England and Scotland, we were invigorated by Scotland’s influence and kept an eye out for any references to it on road signs or other written aspects. 

Suddenly, my eyes honed in on the name of the roads we were intersecting.  To our left the sign read ‘High Row’ and, a short while later, the road sign read ‘Low Row’ to our right. Immediately looking-up the English definition of the word ‘row,’ I learned that it was often used as a substitute for the word road. My mind went racing back to the chorus of Loch Lomond and I wondered if we were in the middle of something, some memorable time in history, that songs were written about and legends were placed in musical form for all to be enlightened, as well as entertained.

DAN’S “LITTLE BOY” ENTHUSIASM 
THRILLED ME TO PIECES!

Shortly afterward, Dan swung the car into a small parking area, said he was going to find the wall and come back for me after he did. Huffing and puffing at my car window several minutes  later, he beckoned me outside, locked the car, and we walked across the narrow road down a grassy path and he placed me in front of a nondescript stone wall. It wasn’t until I looked both ways that I saw it stretch out to the left and to the right as far as the eye could see. We made it! Dan was one with Hadrian’s Wall, at last! 

Standing approximately three feet high and double or triple this dimension in depth, the thrill of actually touching something this old, thinking about its historical impact on the area, and trying to imagine it at its full potential so long ago, was worth this trip to the northern parts of England. Besides, my husband was beaming with excitement and this was worth everything!

LITERALLY, A TOUCH OF HISTORY!

MAKING HIMSELF AT HOME

The day being sunny and gorgeous prompted us to head south to yet another destination on our ‘To Do’ list we compiled during the research for our adventure in Wales and England. How many of you watch Masterpiece on PBS about James Herriot’s adventures as a veterinarian in the 1930’s Yorkshire Dales leading up to England’s participation in WWII? With plenty of heart and a picturesque setting, All Creatures Great and Small has captured our attention for three seasons already. So, off to discover the village of Grassington in the brilliant Yorkshire Dales where this series is being filmed. 

As we reflect back on that busy day just a few short weeks ago, our hearts remain filled with the wonder of learning hands-on about the past and the present, while sharing our finds with everyone upon returning home. Did we stumble upon the grassroots beginnings of a dear and beloved song I’d grown-up playing and singing? Perhaps. After experiencing the signage (or often, lack thereof) of England’s intricate history and having to distinguish places and things on our own, at times…this conclusion becomes more and more feasible. At least that’s my story and I’m sticking with it, for now.

As I write more about our ‘Anniversary Trip Adventures,’ I find I often have as much research to do afterwards as I did prior to leaving on our trip. But, that’s okay by me; I enjoy doing research and learning in depth about the (unexpected) places we saw and experienced. I call this my scoping-out phase of any trip we take because gathering all of this knowledge and information will make our return visits there that much more enjoyable in the future.

MOVING ON…..2013 TO 2023

Copyright © 2023 by Jacqueline E Hughes

All rights reserved

Photos Copyright © 2023 by Jacqueline E Hughes

All rights reserved